Pocketbook. Purse. Hangbag.

From status symbol (the Birkin Bag) through the personal style statement (Clare V), to generational marker (the unironic canvas tote), the handbag, as we know it today, is the result of shifting dress, changing needs, and evolving terminology. What follows is a short history of the handbag, and the language used to describe it—handbag, purse, pocketbook—as its role in dress changed over time.

THE BAG, OUTSIDE THE BODY

Handbags were not always part of dress. For centuries, clothing itself carried what was needed. Men’s and women’s garments were constructed with pockets, or items were managed by attendants. Storage was integrated into clothing, so there was little need for a separate object.

This began to change in the late 18th century. As silhouettes narrowed—particularly in women’s dress—volume in garments was reduced. The full skirts that once concealed pockets gave way to slimmer forms, and with that, internal storage disappeared. Personal items moved outside the body.

Small drawstring purses, often called reticules, emerged in response. They were carried by hand or looped at the wrist and held essentials like coins, keys, and calling cards. These early bags were functional, but also decorative, made in embroidery, silk, and fine materials that reflected the wearer’s taste.

Through the 19th century and into the early 20th, bags continued to evolve alongside clothing. As travel increased and daily routines expanded, so did the need for more durable and structured designs. Leather goods developed with frames, closures, and defined shapes. The addition of handles changed how bags were carried, making them more stable and more visible.

By the mid-20th century, handbags had settled into a recognizable form. Structured top-handle bags were standard by the 1950s, designed to be carried in the hand or over the forearm. In the decades that followed, shoulder straps became more common, along with larger formats and softer constructions. These shifts tracked with changes in daily life, including more women working outside the home and carrying a wider range of items.

Today’s handbags draw from all of these phases—internal function moved outward, structure paired with flexibility, and design shaped by how people move through a day. We can’t help but to imagine what would the future of handbags look like?

 

WHAT’S IN A NAME

The terms we use for bags today were not always interchangeable.

“Purse” is the oldest of the three. The word comes from the Latin bursa, meaning a pouch. Early purses were small, soft bags used to carry coins, often tied at the waist or worn on a belt. The term remained closely associated with money and small valuables for centuries.

“Pocketbook” developed later, referring specifically to a small book-like case used to carry papers, notes, or money. It functioned more like a wallet. In American usage, the term gradually expanded to refer to a woman’s handbag more broadly, particularly in the 20th century.

“Handbag” is the most literal term. It refers to a bag carried in the hand, distinguishing it from luggage or travel goods. As bags became a standard part of dress, “handbag” became the general term for a woman’s everyday carryall.

Over time, these distinctions blurred. Today, “purse,” “handbag,” and “pocketbook” are often used interchangeably, though regional preferences still exist.



PS. We choose to use the word “handbag” for its clarity—and because it holds all of these histories at once ;-) Explore our new Yuzefi arrivals, along with our full Handbag Collection.