The Fabric of Your Fabric
You’ve seen the terms “herringbone” or “twill” when shopping, but unless you’re in a textiles class, the specifics might be fuzzy. So, let’s zoom in on fabric weaves: the unseen gridwork that gives shape, texture, and structure to what we wear.
From basket to jacquard, we’re unspooling the terms, textures, and telltale signs that often go unnamed but always inform how a piece moves, breathes, and lasts.
TWILL
Recognized by its diagonal lines, twill is durable and drapes well. Think jeans, chinos, and workwear—it’s everywhere for a reason. The angled weave helps hide wrinkles and stains, which is why it’s favored for both utility and longevity.
PLAIN WEAVE
The simplest and most common weave: one thread over, one under. Think crisp poplin or lightweight linen—clean, even, and everywhere once you know to look ;-). Its tight, balanced structure makes it a go-to for breathability + structure.
BASKET WEAVE
In fabric, basket weave layers yarns in groups—over and under—to create a chunkier, grid-like texture. In leather, it’s flat strips woven into a lattice, adding structure, breathability, and a sense of handcraft. Same principle, different materials: one gives you body and texture in cloth, the other creates a sculptural, flexible surface in leather goods.
JACQUARD
Woven on a special loom, jacquard fabric builds pattern into the weave itself—no printing or embroidery needed. This one’s an Italian foam jacquard designed less for decoration, more for structure. Think sculptural volume, soft rigidity, and garments that hold their shape.
SATIN
Raise your hand if you thought satin was a fabric, not a weave... right?! Satin is in fact, a weaving technique—one that floats yarns over several others before anchoring them down. Fewer interruptions in the surface = more shine. That’s what gives silk its glow and synthetic satin its signature slink.
HERRINGBONE
A type of twill (diagonal) weave that forms a repeating zigzag—like a series of arrows or tiny V’s stacked point to point. It’s subtle, often tonal, and shows up in wool coats & scarves most often. Herringbone is perfect for when you want texture, but maybe not overt pattern.